H o m e
Seems like the zoom in is finally getting some use.
I'm a huge fan of long mods and the Zoom-In base is perfect.
What are you using to fill in the gap?
I use JB Weld for the seams and to fill in the open side windows. The seams are also braced inside for added strength. I also stager the cuts so there isn't a weak point straight across the body.
@Guitarded And Broke I'd be interested in seeing the process. Could make some good video content. Not too much on youtube about stretching cars.
looking great- what is it going to weigh?
No weight yet but I'm shooting for the 250g mark.
I like that you have a signature look to your customs.
Thanks man! No one else is doing the Jackson Pollock thing so I thought I would brand myself/customs. lol
Inside look at the weight. Mostly TXChemist tungsten and a few small pieces of lead. Held in with JB Weld.
I was shooting for 250g. Pretty happy with the weight and placement.
Final weight. 239.6g A little work left to do on the wheels and she'll be done.
Is that a custom decal on the spoiler?
Yup. 'NO TOOLS LOANED'
The results of much testing. Opened back up for a weight adjustment.
For a long time I had this theory of making the car a little front heavy to keep it straight around the turns. And while there may be something to that if you can get the weight in front of the front axle/wheels, I found with the zoom in base, having a little more weight in the rear keeps it going straight around the turns. What have you noticed?
I work with the 60/40 idea but instead of putting 60% in the back I now put 60% in the front. Packing the nose works great as long as the the back (directly over the back axle) is weighted enough to keep it from bouncing or breaking loose which of course causes the back end to whip around through the turns. The back end gets extremely loose when the nose is packed but can be managed. Pulling the car with front weight is by far the best method of travel over the old idea (orange track) of pushing the vehicle.
So yes, your theory is totally correct!! Pull from the front and stabilize the rear. You seriously almost don't need weight in the middle of the car other than to protect from the other guy hitting you. I just broken my track record by taping a couple of cubes of tungsten to the hood of a Nissan 350Z w/ FTEs. Total weight was only 46g and it ran a 4.5 seconds. I put those FTEs on my stretched 350Z btw.
New weight positioning and FTE wheel swap with axle polishing.
Inside the body. Popsicle sticks to brace the cuts and JB Weld holding it all together. I also hit it with the main body color just to make it pretty even though it doesn't ever get seen. :P
I was really hoping to get to the 250g mark and with a little weight adjustment (which was needed anyways) I nailed it. :)
Thanks so much for the info, and once again my alligator mind will overwhelm my hummingbird energy
LOL!! My next build will be a 50g to 60g with no center weight. Just front and rear. Here goes my alligator mind. I'm gonna build a roof onto a Baby Ruth Dodge Concept and go from there.
Lot s of great development work going on there. Great s tuff. Cheer s